"Escape the riff raff by chartering a private speed boat. I can’t help looking smug as we glide out of the harbourfront and the city’s walls gradually recede behind us. To the north, the wooded Elaphiti Islands beckon. We spend the day swimming and snorkelling in secluded rocky coves without another soul in sight. The tranquillity is intoxicating; a brief visit to Sunj beach on Lopud island is disheartening; there’s just too many people."